Jul 242013
 

Posted from Kuta, Bali, Indonesia.

One can find variety of testimonies on Tripadvisor that comment on the quality of transportation between Bali and Gili Islands. More often than not the travellers recommend avoiding the fast boat services for the very basic reason – safety. We didn’t listen enough and put ourselves through by far the worst experience of our travel in Bali. Half way through our journey to Bali the strong sea waves spurred by the heavy currents punched out the front deck window of our boat’s deck and the sea water started pouring in! This lead to a considerable amount of panic aboard, some passengers commenced”feeding the cats” and our luggage got totally soaked as a result. We survived, no one got hurt and that’s what matters. Next time we’ll take a flight and avoid the fast boat adventure, let alone the company Semaya One! It turns out a similar accident happened to them already in the past by the way ….


Sanur is one of Bali’s holiday centres slightly north of the airport. We found accommodation in less than memorable 4* hotel Plaza Paradise and went on to discover the Balinese craftsmanship the day after our arrival. We got to see the silver factory, batik warehouse, wood carving and art galleries. These were all tourist hotspots with price adjustments clearly in place. Some negotiation though and we bought ourselves a set of beautiful teak wood bowls for our London home and at least we think the price was good.

Komodo National Park has been recently voted by public as one of the world’s natural wonders as declared by New 7 Wonders Foundation. The park stretches itself over three big islands – Komodo, Rinca and Padar – and many other small islands surrounding it.


On Saturday Jul 20 early in the morning Flavia and I embarked on a flight with Merpati Airways (local low cost airline) and flew over to the island of Flores, particularly to the township of Laguan Bajo, in which an airport has been recently constructed to enhance what is otherwise a poor fishing village and turn it into a touristl hub for the infamous Komodo islands.

There have been a few surprises we encountered in Indonesia, but this one rises to the top. As we embarked our boat, we realised there were going to be no other travellers other than the two of us, our personal guide, the captain and his deck hand. Wow – now we were talking luxury.

The islands of Komodo and Rinca blew us away. Rinca is clearly drier than Komdo, its grass is more yellow and vegetation slightly less dense. Komodo is greener and its hills can be compared to those of New Zealand’s north island or possibly to Highlands in Scotland. Both islands are of volcanic origins. Their fauna is exactly identical apart from the presence of macaque monkeys that can be found only on Rinca.


The variety as well as numbers of animals seem to be unlimited. We have seen deer, boars, eagles, monkeys, fowls and there are 3 species of snakes, water buffaloes and of course the dragons themselves.

Komodo Dragon is effectively a large monitor lizard that can grow up to 3m and 70kg in size. The males are larger than females. July is the mating season, so the males are chasing the ladies who tend to run away into the mountains, but hey, this is an island, there is no way they can escape. The eggs will be hidden in holes in September, the mothers will protect them for three months and leave. The baby dragons will hatch in April at which point the adults will return and try to eat them. The babies have developed the instinct to run onto trees and only leave those once they are able to defend themselves.

Our last night at Flores was spent at Laguan Bajo. The town is much poorer than what we saw anywhere on Bali, but one strange feature dominated our visit. It was the presence of Italian entrepreneurs everywhere. Why would the Italians buy the whole town and opened all these restaurants? Who knows!

We landed back in Denpassar, Bali, on Monday morning, booked a driver and went on to see one of the Bali’s most spectacular temples – Tannah Lot, one that is famous as it stands on a rock that can be accessed on foot during low tide and is surrounded by water during high tide.


Our Monday finished nicely in a family run Sanur restaurant just slightly off the main Street called Lilla. On Tuesday morning we left Sanur for Jimbaran where we’ll spend the last leg of our trip.

Jul 182013
 

Posted from West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia.

Bali’s neighbour to the east is an island constituency of a similar size – Lombok, which tends to receive overall less tourism than Bali, but it does have touristic jewels nevertheless. These are three mini-islands called Trawangan, Air and Mini (by the order of size).

Interesting fact is also that the demographics of the Lombok area are different from Bali. The majority of the population of Lombok is Muslim, and the choice of accommodation gains another decision factor, which is the vicinity to local mosque. If you sleep right underneath it, you’re bound to receive regular early morning wake up’s through a fairly strong amplified middle-eastern sound …

It takes 1-1.5hrs travel on a speed-boat from Bali’s Padang Bay to the small islands and from then on everything slows down for you. Forget scooters, forget cars, forget even paved roads and here come power cuts, bungalows, bamboo structures, corals, sun and you’ll also meet an Indonesian Axel Rose and his buddy “Indonesian Slash”.


We chose Gili Trawangan as our destination. It’s the largest of Gili Islands with 1,500 local population and the largest touristic facilities. The island is 3km long and 2km wide. Most of the accommodation takes form of simple huts with a swimming pool and most are oriented to the east of the island. Our place was called Balenta Bungalows and we had for instance no warm water throughout our stay and we got used to it!

Our four days went by extremely quickly. I’ve got a sunburn to start with on the very first day whilst Flavia kept turning more and more brown (jealous!). We snorkelled, read books, did long walks all the way north and south of the island, saw two sunsets from “cool” beach bars, ate some amazing fish bbq’s and took a half day turtle-spotting snorkelling trip around the three islands on an overcrowded boat. The boat trip was the only flip we have experienced. With 80 people crowded in snorkelling gear on a tiny stretch of sea chasing the poor turtles wasn’t anything near what we believed we actually paid for. Next time we’ll ask more questions before we hand over our cash.

We loved the stay in Gili T and would come back any time again.